Infinity Hand Towel Pattern

Long time, no see. I apologize for not giving this blog -any- time or effort.  I wanted to share my patterns and work, with others as well as being able to refer back to them easily myself. I have another pattern to do that with!

We purchased an island/counter for our kitchen that has a paper towel holder.  I try to use less disposables, but alas still use them. I was inspired to make a reusable towel for it, as it was the perfect holder for an infinity towel. Something that apparently is not a thing?

But I dislike regular towels that won’t stay on the stove door, or need buttons, or just end up on the countertop. I just want to dry my hands, not have the towel get smelly or fall on the floor.  My small kitchen has no practical solutions.  So I have made three of these, very simple and easy, and will need a new paper towel home. Voila:

Finished size for mine was 8.5” wide, and 9.5” long laid flat. So about 17” long before sewing. 

Gauge: 5 row sets make 4” long, 14-15 stitches for 4” wide.

Pattern:

Worsted Weight Cotton Yarn

H/8, 5mm hook

Start: Chain 31. Skip 1.

Row 1: SC across (30 SC)

Row 2: Ch 2, Turn, DC across (30 DC)

This makes what I call a row set.  Repeat row 1 (ch 1 to start it of course) and row 2 for 23 more times.  A total of 24 sets, or 48 total rows.

Cut a long tail to sew up to the starting row and sew in ends.

That’s all folks!  

I have not washed or used mine yet.  I opted not to do an edge or anything fancy. I wanted them to be easy and simple to make, and want them to hold up to use and washings and I think it is best to leave it as is. 

Obviously you can adjust the width and length as you see fit. I was aiming to mimic the size of paper towels, have it hang enough to make it easy to use, as it is fully attached to the holder, and not hang too low either. 

Let me know what you think. 

Side to Side Ribbed hat pattern

2024 update!: I’ve made a short tutorial of making one section.  I used a project that I had already started, so it does not include the starting chain.  It’s mid-work!

Youtube Link

Hello again!  I am here today to bring you my version of a crochet Side to Side Ribbed Hat pattern.
How is my ribbed hat different than others?  It uses smaller stitches AND short rows to create a great fit on the top of your head.  Practically no bunching and nice tight gather at the top!

Heartlands: Kings Canyon, Acadia; I Love This Yarns: Cranberry & Yellow; Heartlands: Denali

The top of the hat!

In order to make this, hopefully, less of a mess, most of the pictures will be at the end of the blog post.  Hopefully that doesn't turn out to be a pain in your butt.  This pattern uses short rows and there are photos to help explain that.  If you want more info on short rows, there is this blog post here about them!

This pattern in available in the following sizes.
Newborn, Toddler, Child, Adult, Adult Large

These sizes are sort of a rough estimate.  I have not made the Adult Large size yet, and a couple of the ones I did make weren't exactly to pattern as I was figuring out the sizing and pattern.
*This pattern has been edited to remove the "teen" size and to change stitch count on the Child size as I just finished one and tried it on my 5 year old and felt it wasn't quite right.  I tried on the toddler size hat myself and it was not tight like I expected, though it looked it.  I just made a newborn that when unworn measured approx 11" in circumference, and being so stretchy is a perfect size.
A new picture of all sizes will be added in the future as I plan on having all sizes made appropriate to the pattern.

For the record, the red and yellow hat with the poof in the picture - I didn't use short rows on it and it's pretty bunchy at the top.  It was my first one and a bit ugly, and unless you don't mind weaving in ends, I do NOT recommend striping colors.  What a pain in my butt.  But I am very happy with it! (Go Gryffindor!!)

I recommend Heartland yarn.  This hat is SO soft and cozy and I absolutely LOVE IT!
***  Heartland yarn is a stretchy yarn!  Using a different yarn will change the fit and stretch of the hat.  ***

MATERIALS
H/8 - 5.00mm hook
Lion Brand Heartland yarn (or your choice #4/worsted weight yarn)
Yarn needle to weave in ends and scissors to cut yarn
Stitch marker, though not necessary.


STITCHES/TERMS USED
(optional) Chainless Foundation
Single Crochet (SC)
Half Double Crochet (HDC)
Gather stitch (I am making this up.  Pull up 2 loops, 1 from the side of each of the previous two rows. Pull another loop from the next stitch, back loop only in this case. YO and pull through 4 loops. Picture at end of post!)
Back Loop Only (BLO)

PATTERN
The number of stitches will be listed as follows.  Newborn(Toddler, Child, Adult)
For Adult Large, pattern is written separately beneath this one, as it is a bit different.

Tip: Place a stitch marker in your last SC.  This makes it a little more mindless and helps prevent mistakes.  (I did make mistakes a couple times before I started to use the marker)

Row 1:
Option 1 (recommended) - Chainless Foundation 6 (6, 6, 10) SC and then continue Chainless Foundation 20 (24, 28, 30) HDC.

Option 2 - Chain 27 (31, 33, 41) In second chain from hook, work 6 (6, 6, 10) SC and then work 20 (24, 28, 30) HDC.   [if you use this option, your tail will be on the opposite end.  I use the tail to draw the hat together, but you'll have to weave it in and then use a separate piece to draw your hat together]

**
Row 2:
Ch 2, turn.  HDC in BACK LOOP ONLY 20 (24, 28, 30).  SC BLO 3 (3, 3, 5).  [Leave the other stitches unworked]

Row 3:
Ch 1, turn.  SC BLO 3 (3, 3, 5).  HDC BLO 20 (24, 28, 30).

Row 4:
Ch 2, turn.  HDC BLO 20 (24, 28, 30).  SC BLO 3 (3, 3, 5).  Gather.  SC BLO 2 (2, 2, 4) .

Row 5:
Ch 1, turn.  SC BLO 6 (6, 6, 10).  HDC BLO 20 (24, 28, 30).
**

Repeat rows 2-5 (ending on a row 4) for a total of 28 (32, 36, 40) rows.
If you count row 1-4 as a single section (count how many short rows there are) it's 7 (8, 9, 10) sections.  If you're trying to adjust the circumference of your hat, the number of rows needs to be divisible by 4.

Skip over this part if you're ready to finish the hat.  The following is for the Adult Large.
The adult large is worked in 6 sections instead of 4, so the circumference/number of rows must be divisible by 6!

ADULT LARGE PATTERN
Row 1.
Op 1- Chainless foundations: 12 SC as well as 34 HDC.
Op 2.  Chain 47.  In second chain from hook, SC 12.  HDC 34. [if you use this option, your tail will be on the opposite end.  I use the tail to draw the hat together, but you'll have to weave it in and then use a separate piece to draw your hat together]

** Row 2.
Ch 2, turn.  HDC BACK LOOP ONLY 34.  SC BLO 8. [leave 4 unworked]

Row 3.
Ch 1, turn.  SC BLO 8, HDC BLO 34.

Row 4.
Ch 2, turn.  HDC BLO 34, SC BLO 4 [leave 4 unworked]

Row 5. 
Ch 1, turn.  SC BLO 4, HDC BLO 34.

Row 6.
Ch 2, turn.  HDC BLO 34.  SC BLO 4.  Gather.  SC BLO 3. Gather. SC BLO 3.

Row 7.
Ch 1, turn.  SC BLO 12.  HDC BLO 34.
**

Repeat rows 2-7 for a total of 42 rows (ending on a row 6), or for 7 completed sections. The number of rows will be divisible by 6.

FINISHING THE HAT
Leaving a long tail at the end of your work, use this to seam together the sides of the hat.  Make sure to work only in the Back Loop of the last row!
[ I like to hold my work as if I was doing an addition row so I know where to work into the back loop.  If you don't have the same number of stitches on each end of the piece, you made a mistake! (That happened to me and still don't know when/how/where the mistake happened.) ]

After the sides are seamed together, gather around the top of the hat and pull tight.  Secure it well, weave in all ends, and you are finished!  You of course have the option of making a poof ball on top of your hat, or doing trim around the opening, but I did not do this for mine.
[When gathering the top of the hat, I only worked into the stitches where you can see two strands.  Less is more here if you ask me.  See pictures for clarity on that!]

End of Chainless Foundation/Row 1

Marker lets me know to switch to SC

End of row 2

End of row 3

Row 4.  Marker tells me to switch to SC

Stitch Markers showing where to draw loops on my Gather stitch

All loops drawn for my Gather stitch

Gather stitch completed

One section complete.

3 sections completed

All rows completed (toddler size hat)

I worked my tail through my slipknot to start

Back Loop of first stitch with first stitch of other side.

All seamed up.

Last of 8 stitches to gather top of hat.

Pulled tight!

Completed.  Showing side with seam and top.

Other side, no seam showing.

My 5yo in the toddler size hat.  She approves!

Looks tight to me, and obviously too short for brim.

Adult size

Adult size on me.

Free Dog/Cat Butt Coaster Pattern

 

Hello again!  I am here once more to bring you a pattern I just created for a Dog (or Cat) Butt Coaster pattern!  I won't lie here.  I saw one of these on Instagram and loved it, it's so funny.  (Credit to Leslie here.  You can buy her version on her site!) There are a few patterns on ravelry for cat butt coasters (I prefer cats, but why no Dog love on this one?), one of which is free.  Honestly, I thought they could all use some improvement.  I checked out the free one to see how it was done (wasn't impressed [hey, I'm picky]) and then tried my own method.  I am very pleased with the results.  Behold!

(Favorite this pattern on Ravelry!)

This is a link to a pdf file that is printer friendly - no pictures.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9BLUR8FAe8BbVJzRm5aUzVTVjA/view?usp=drivesdk&resourcekey=0-REQuy-uIXc3YaThVkoMNSg

With no further ado, here is how I did it.  The following pattern is in US terms.

Everyone loves a pattern with plenty of pictures, right?  I hope so, cause I took plenty.

Materials:

G/6 - 4.25mm Hook 

(Size/gauge is not extremely important)

100% Cotton Yarn (Colors: Pink, and your choice for fur)

Needle to sew in ends, and scissors to cut of course.

Finished size: 

About 3.5 inches from side to side 

(a little less depending where you measure)

6" from top of tail to bottom of feet

Stitches/Skills used:

Magic Ring (Optional)

Invisible Join (Explained + pictures)

Chain

Slip Stitch

Single Crochet (SC)

Half Double Crochet (HDC)

Double Crochet (DC)

Note for clarity:

SC 4 = SC into each of the next 4 sts.  

2SC = Do 2 SC into same stitch.

Round 1:  Using Pink.  Magic Ring (or Ch2 and work into first Ch stitch) 6 SC.

Invisible Join: Cut yarn leaving tail and pull the yarn through.  Using a needle, pass yarn from the front toward back of the first SC of the round.  Pass yarn into top of the last SC you made.  Pull only tight enough to blend and create your 7th SC.
You should have 7 SC.

 (See next 5 pictures!)

Alternately, you can just do 7SC and slip to join, then finish off.

This is a view of the back of the work.  Needle enters top of stitch.

The needle is inserted simply to show the 7th stitch we created.

Completed, 7 SC.

 I apologize now for pictures that are sideways.  Forgot to fix that before I uploaded all of them!

Round 2!
Create a slip stitch with your second color.  I do not have a tutorial for this, but they are easy to find.
Join anywhere to your work with a slip stitch.

insert hook

After slip stitch.  Pull your slip knot tight for the best look.

Pull that slip knot tight so it looks good.
(Still Round 2)  Ch 1.
Do not turn your work throughout the pattern!
Working into the same stitch you joined to, 2SC into each stitch. Slip sts to join.  (14sts total)

I split the first 2SC between the start and end of round, but you don't have to do that!!! 

I did one SC in the beginning and my second SC into the same stitch was at end of round!!!

End Round 2.

Round 5 complete.

Round 3.  (Work into sts you joined to)
Ch 1.
*SC, 2SC* repeat around to end. Slip Sts to join.  (21 sts total)

Round 4.
Ch 1.
*SC 2, 2SC* repeat around to end. Slip Sts to join.  (28 sts total)

Round 5.
Ch 1.
*SC 3, 2SC* repeat around to end. Slip Sts to join.  (35 sts total)

Round 6.
Ch 8.  In second ch from hook, SC.
HDC, DC 5.

Work into the bump on the back of the CH for best look.

Tail completed.  Hook shows where to work next SC.

Round 6 continued:
Skip 2 stitches, which includes the stitch you joined to, and SC into the 3rd stitch. (Picture shows slip stitch - I have changed the pattern and no new picture)
SC 1. (see picture)
2SC, SC 4, 2SC, SC 4, 2SC, SC 1.

Round 6 continued:
Ch 4.
In 3rd ch from hook, DC.
DC in next ch.
DC in side of your last SC.  (See next 3 pictures!)

My fingers showing the side of the SC stitch.

Hook inserted into side of SC stitch.

Third DC completed!

Round 6 continued:
Skip 2 stitches.  SC into the third stitch.
2SC, SC 1.
Ch 4.
DC into 3rd ch, as before.
DC into next ch.
DC into side of your last SC.
Skip 2 stitches. SC into the third stitch.
2SC.

Two legs complete.

 

Slip into the slip stitch, right where my fingernail is.

Round 6 continued:
*SC 4, 2SC* twice.

Slip stitch into the slip stitch that started the round!  See picture.

Just showing where I wove my end in behind the tail.

Weave in your ends and you are finished!
This picture shows where I weaved in.  It hides well there.  Of course, don't cut it here, keep weaving some more.

With the pink tails, honestly, I did a square knot.  I figured a knot was not a big deal on the bottom of a coaster.

(Square knot: cross tails, right over left and knot.  Then cross tails, left over right and knot tight.  Or vice versa.  I'm sure you can find it on youtube!)

There you have it.  A dog, or cat, butt coaster.

I would maybe chain a couple more and do just DC down the tail for a cat coaster, so it's more round like the feet instead of almost pointy.


If you find any mistakes or need me to be less confusing (sorry if I'm confusing) do not hesitate to contact me!
Enjoy!